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ENGINEERING APPROACH TO TEXTILE STRUCTURES Man-made fibers must be drawn to orient their constituent molecules into an orderly arrangement parallel to the fiber axis, and this leads to higher tenacity. The greater the draw ratio, the greater the degree of molecular orientation (i.e. crystallization), and   higher the fiber tenacity. Most man-made fibers must be drawn to some degree to give them adequate tenacity to fit them for commercial applications, but that having been said, there is still room for producing a range of fibers of different tenacities from the same material to suit different end-use. For example, engineering uses require fibers of higher tenacity than normally needed for apparel fabrics or carpets. If one uses the analogy of yarn in which fiber are parallel to one another (Staple fiber yarns) and those in which fibers are very much crumpled and distorted (textured yarns) , it is not difficult to see why drawn, and therefore strong fibers with good mol...

Many of the physical properties can be modified to confer desirable properties on man-made fibers. For example, other chemical may be added to modify their composition and properties; these can open-up the structure and make the fibers more accessible to water and dyestuff. To modify the aesthetics of fabrics made from man-made fibers, manufactures have also altered linear density, shrinkage, crimp level and character, surface charge characteristics, cross-sectional shape and many fibers can be produced with built-in-color. Variable fiber shrinkage gives bulking properties, crimped fibers and springy and bulky, and straight fibers are soft and smooth to the hand. Surface friction is also important; fine fibers with smooth surfaces can provide a soft, luxurious handle. The shape of the fiber cross-section can be modified by spinning from spinnerets with non-circular orifices. The degree of departure from the circularity and differences in shape offer a large variety of possibilit...

Textile raw materials Classification of fibers Engineering approach to fibers, yarns and fabrics Importance of textile structures for Engineers Physical and Mechanical properties of various fibers Textile properties developed by drawing Design and other fiber attributes Essential and desirable properties of textile fibers Influence of fiber fineness Miscellaneous properties of fibers Flexural rigidity of textile fibers Fiber migration Measurement of fiber migration Definition of yarn Factors affecting yarn strength Parameters affecting physical properties of yarn Classification of yarn Classification of yarn based on physical and performance characteristics Description of yarn Idealizes structural diagram of some yarns Continuous filament and staple yarn structure Fundamental structural features of yarn Yarn designation Relative consumption of yarn Sewing thread Thread sizes Thread selection Importance of twist Types and direction of twist Bedding or ne...

Trelor in his Mather lecture, titled “Twisted Structures” adequately recognizes the role of twist in yarns and the part it plays in the design of textile structures .He discusses the obvious necessity of twist in the natural and staple fibers by pointing out “ Twist is essential to provide a certain minimum coherence between fibers, without a yarn having a significant tensile strength cannot be made. This coherence is dependent on the frictional forces brought into play by the lateral pressures between fibers arising from the application of a tensile stress along the yarn axis. With the introduction of continuous filament yarns, however, the role of twist must be reconsidered. In continuous filament yarns, twist is not necessary for the attainment of tensile strength (in fact, it reduces it) but it is necessary for the achievement of satisfactory resistance to abrasion, fatigue, or other types of damage associated with stresses other than a simple tensile stress, and typified ...