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Different types of sewing thread for garments sewing


Different types of sewing thread for garments sewing. The size of spun thread had been expressed in terms of its diameter: the higher the number the finer the three ply (50/3) had a ticket number of 50, a thread of 60 three ply (60/3) had a ticket number of 60, and so forth.. Subsequently, the number of plies in sewing thread was extended to, two, three, four and six ply. A ticket number of 50 could therefore indicate a 50 two ply (50/2), a 50 three ply (50/3), a 50 four ply (50/4), or a 50 six ply (50/6); but the
thickness of the thread in each case was the same, while each ply was thinner. The greater number of ply yarns implied greater thread strength.
thread. At one time, thread had been made only from three-ply spun yarns. Therefore, a spun yarn thread of 50
The size of mercerized cotton sewing  thread were identified by letter as well as number. The range was found from F (coarsest) to A (medium) and then from 0 to 00000 (finest).

Identification of thread size, called ticket number, is undergoing a transition. Different kinds of yarns had different numbering designations. The Thread Institute adopted a standardized ticket numbering system based on the tex system of numbering yarn.
The tex system is intended to give an orderliness by providing one ticket numbering system based upon metric system which is now universally accepted. Since tex is the weight in grams of a 1000-meter length and is a direct numbering system, the greater the weight the thicker the thread and therefore higher the number. Ticket numbers are based on actual tex size of the thread in the griege state, i.e. twisted, braided, or extruded before any dyeing, special processing, or finishing. The purpose of the stipulation is intended to obviate the alteration of the thread’s apparent size by any finish.
The following is the system adopted:
  STANDARD SEWING THREAD TEX TICKET NUMBER

                                        1         10      35      105       300
                                        2         12      40      120       350
                                        3         14      45      135       400
                                        4         16      50      150       550
                                        5         18      60      180       500
                                        6          21     70       210     
                                        7          24     80       240      Above 500, in
                                        8          27      90      270       increment of 100
                                        9          30

One important caution should be noted when using the tex ticket numbers. When selecting proper thread size, threads of the same fiber and type must be compared. Since the tex ticket numbering system is based on weight and since different kinds of fibers and/or types have different weights and moisture, the same tex number of threads of different fibers or types will not necessarily be of the same thickness and may therefore not be interchangeable.
THREAD SELECTION:
Selection of the appropriate kind and size of sewing thread is important. The thread should be as fine as possible, consistent with the nature of the fabric and the strength requirements of the stitching. Finer threads could be less obvious, they become hidden below the surface of the cloth, and they are less subject to abrasion than heavier threads. Also, finer threads require finer needles which cause less fabric distortion than heavier needles. Threads composed of the same kind of fiber as that of the fabric is also important because of such factors as general appearance, color fastness, finish retention, elasticity and strength.
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