Pattern is a paper that is so
thin. It is the copy of design which for essential for garments product. In
clothing industries the design means determine the space the shape and
developing the pattern according to it. The traditional method is to it make a
concept of drawing and then copy or model it on a dummy mannequin. Now -a-days
design can be collect from the following source.
1.
Designer own thinking or self creativity.
2.
Developing.
3.
Copying.
Pattern making process on garments
Working surface a flat of polished or laminated working top
required.
Paper with pattern paper of strong brown paper required.
Marker pens required for writing clear instruction on pattern
sensor is used for cutting pattern paper
Paper with pattern paper of strong brown paper required.
Marker pens required for writing clear instruction on pattern
sensor is used for cutting pattern paper
A pattern paper should contain
the following information. The normally it must should have contained in a
garments industries. The block e.g. bodies front, back, sleeve, skirt, collar,
yoke, pocket etc. the grain line in pattern piece.32, 34, 33, 38 etc. centre fronts
or centre back. Style number or code number of the pattern paper. Straight
bottom/ tailed bottom. Cutting information-how many pieces to be cut. Cut1,
cut2, cut3 cut on fold etc. block patterns or basic block are individual
component of garments without any design or style. They are made according to
the exact dimension of standard body where no allowances are considered. Block
pattern are made in two methods.
Flat method and modeling method.
The flat method different parts of garments e.g. body sleeves are by technical
drawing. Body measurement and application of method depends on pattern maker. Modeling
method it is a primary method and first method of pattern making and used in
the garments industries widely. Block are made with standard body measurement
of statue which known toile. Toiles are worn on stat and consist to the body of
the state. Then toile is worn out of the body of the state and individual parts
of the toile are drawn on hard paper. This method required more time but better
result can be grain from it.
Grading means step wise increase
or decrease of master pattern pieces to create larger or smaller pieces. The
starting point can be smallest size or the middle size. Grading alters the
overall size of a design but not its general shape and design. Manual grading
and computer aided grading method are use in this step. The manual grading the
design range of size is creating one by one using a pattern template. Marks are
made around the master pattern at the appropriate distance and the marks are
the later joined up to from enlarged pattern.
In this way a full set of
template is generated. And finally the pattern set is created. And the computer
based grading system operates in two ways, one the grading increments are fed
into the computer and the different size is generated automatically using the
same method as applied for manual grading. And two steps the pattern for each
individual size calculates separately starting from the data in the size
charts. The resulting nests of pattern can be displayed to scale on the
computer. It may be used in various ways depending on the level of automation
on the industries.
Cutting and spread method
The easiest method, which is the
basis of the other two methods, is to cut the pattern and spread the
pieces by a specific amount of grad up,
or overlap them to grade down. No special training or tools are required, just
sensor. The shifting is the process of increasing or decreasing the overlap
dimension of a pattern by moving it a measurement distance up and down and left
and right, using the special design ruler. And rewinding the outline, to
produce the same result as the cut and spread method.
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