Different types of sewing thread for garments sewing. The size of spun thread had been
expressed in terms of its diameter: the higher the number the finer the three ply
(50/3) had a ticket number of 50, a thread of 60 three ply (60/3) had a ticket number of 60, and so forth..
Subsequently, the number of plies in sewing thread was extended to, two, three,
four and six ply. A ticket number of 50 could therefore indicate a 50 two ply
(50/2), a 50 three ply (50/3), a 50 four ply (50/4), or a 50 six ply (50/6);
but the thickness of the thread in each case was the same, while each ply was thinner. The greater number of ply yarns implied greater thread strength.
The size of mercerized cotton
sewing thread were identified by letter
as well as number. The range was found from F (coarsest) to A (medium) and then
from 0 to 00000 (finest).
Identification of thread size,
called ticket number, is undergoing a transition. Different kinds of yarns had
different numbering designations. The Thread Institute adopted a standardized
ticket numbering system based on the tex system of numbering yarn.
The tex system is intended to
give an orderliness by providing one ticket numbering system based upon metric
system which is now universally accepted. Since tex is the weight in grams of a
1000-meter length and is a direct numbering system, the greater the weight the
thicker the thread and therefore higher the number. Ticket numbers are based on
actual tex size of the thread in the griege state, i.e. twisted, braided, or
extruded before any dyeing, special processing, or finishing. The purpose of
the stipulation is intended to obviate the alteration of the thread’s apparent
size by any finish.
The following is the system
adopted:
STANDARD SEWING THREAD TEX
TICKET NUMBER
1 10
35 105 300
2 12
40 120 350
3 14
45 135 400
4 16
50 150 550
5
18 60 180
500
6 21
70 210
7 24
80 240 Above 500, in
8 27
90 270 increment of 100
9 30
One important caution should be
noted when using the tex ticket numbers. When selecting proper thread size,
threads of the same fiber and type must be compared. Since the tex ticket
numbering system is based on weight and since different kinds of fibers and/or
types have different weights and moisture, the same tex number of threads of
different fibers or types will not necessarily be of the same thickness and may
therefore not be interchangeable.
THREAD SELECTION:
Selection of the appropriate kind
and size of sewing thread is important. The thread should be as fine as
possible, consistent with the nature of the fabric and the strength
requirements of the stitching. Finer threads could be less obvious, they become
hidden below the surface of the cloth, and they are less subject to abrasion
than heavier threads. Also, finer threads require finer needles which cause
less fabric distortion than heavier needles. Threads composed of the same kind
of fiber as that of the fabric is also important because of such factors as
general appearance, color fastness, finish retention, elasticity and strength.
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